Bermuda 6/11-6/13--Black-bellied Whistling-Duck, Common Gallinule, WHITE-TAILED TROPICBIRD, Great Kiskadee

WHITE-TAILED TROPICBIRDS

 Given that

            I hate airports and airplanes

And given that

           Shari wants to go on vacation

We took a cruise to Bermuda that left out of Bayonne. I had a friend whose theory was that anyplace can be interesting for three days, and that's how many days we had on Bermuda. I knew going in that it wasn't a very birdy island--my brother told me that Bermuda has a "depauperate flora and fauna"--but there was one life bird in the offing, and it seemed we were going at the right season to see it. (The endemic Bermuda Petrel [Cahow], of which there are only about 500, is mainly crepuscular and nocturnal and is rarely seen from land.) We did, however, arrange one day of birding with a local guide. 

I was hoping that during the days at sea I might see shearwaters, petrels, and the like, but the two days on the North Atlantic Ocean going out were devoid of any avian activity. It was the longest time since I've been paying attention that I've gone without seeing a bird and quite possibly the longest time since I was an infant. 

There isn't a lot for me to do on a ship--the weather was fine yet windy and chilly so I wasn't inclined to sunbathe or use the pool--but our balcony (the company called it a "verandah") was protected from the wind and there was a certain mesmerizing quality to just sitting there staring at the "wide, wide sea," which was the name of the book I read on the trip, a history of Captain Cook's third and fatal voyage. 

My parents used to take a lot of cruises and now I can see why my father always came back 20 pounds heavier. Food is everywhere and constant ("Anyone for Midnight Pizza?") and looking at my fellow passengers I can see why GLP-1 drugs are such a thing now. I would estimate the avoirdupois of the 3000 paying customers equaled the tonnage of the ship itself.  

On Wednesday morning, as we were entering the old Royal Dockyard, I went up on deck and scanned the sky for birds and the first ones I saw had long streamer tails and just like that I had my life bird, the WHITE-TAILED TROPICBIRD. I texted Shari down in the stateroom and she saw them from a different vantage point. They weren't hard to find. During the three days we were there they were a constant presence overhead anytime you were near water, and since Bermuda is, at its widest point, a mile and a half across, we were always near water.

Great Kiskadee, Spittal Pond

We disembarked and headed directly to the old English fort, hewn from limestone. As we were walking there, we heard call we were familiar with from Texas and Mexico. There on one of the ramparts of the fort was a Great Kiskadee. Kiskadees are not native to the island. They were brought there to control the three types of anoles that were brought to Bermuda, two by accident, one deliberately to control the fruit fly population but then became a pest, like the other two lizards. The kiskadees were successful in their efforts but now have turned their attention to the endemic Bermuda Skink, which they are also successfully eradicating. You'd think that the lesson would be learned. You'd think that, but you'd be wrong.

We stopped into the museum inside the fort and got a general overview of Bermuda's history--it had no indigenous population before it was colonized in 1609 after it was discovered by shipwrecked sailors who thought there was plenty to eat there, if you like Cahows. And now you know why the Bermuda Petrel's population is either the second or third smallest avian population. 

Walking up a ramp we could walk around the top of the walls of the fort and looking down into the crevices between the huge limestone blocks we saw a tropicbird enter a nest. There are, according to a plaque, 20 nests in those walls. Also atop the wall were Killdeer. They were the only shorebird species we were to see there and of course they are shorebirds in name only. What we didn't know about Bermuda is that Red Junglefowl (chickens) run loose everywhere. Unfortunately, unlike Key West where eBird lists them as "provisional" they are not countable in Bermuda. But they are amusing. 

Yellow-crowned Night Heron

That evening we took a ferry across the harbor to Hamilton where there was a street festival going on featuring a troupe of gombeys, traditional Bermuda dancers and drummers. Skulking along the edge of the harbor wall was a Yellow-crowned Night Heron which was not in the least intimidated by the crowds, the noise, or the flashing lights. In fact, when we got back on the boat, the heron was standing on the roof, eating popcorn that was thrown up to it. 

Common Gallinule, Spittal Pond

The next day was our birding day. We met our guide and 9 AM and she took us a 40 minute drive to what is probably the main and best birding spot on the island, Spittal Pond, which is a brackish pond near the ocean on the south side of the island. It encompasses five of the six Bermudian habitats, with only "beach" being absent. In the pond we saw Snowy Egrets, Green Heron, Mallards (another "naturalized" bird) and our first Common Gallinules of the year. Climbing up a rather steep path through the woods we came out to limestone cliffs overlooking the ocean, an area called "the checkerboard" because of the deep, straight horizontal and vertical fissures in the rocks that have been carved by eons of waves washing over them. Here again we were treated to 20 or 25 tropicbirds whizzing by and visiting their nests in the openings between the rocks. They make a screech reminiscent of the Common Tern. 

We drove around to the northern end of the island to the airport where there is a retention pond that reminded Shari of Marshall's Pond in Toms River. It was a little smaller and not full of bottles and effluvia, but the comparison was apt. Here we added American Coot and Great Egret to our Bermuda list. 

Black-bellied Whistling-Duck

Our guide, Lynn, is friendly with the manager of the Port Royal Golf Club, which is one of eight on the island and the only public one. We drove there because for the last week or so a rarity was being seen, on and off. She called her friend after we gave a cursory look and he said he'd take a drive down to let her know. When we got to the parking lot above the 17th hole, he drove up in his golf cart and confirmed that 9 Black-bellied Whistling Ducks were in the pond there. He offered us a ride, which Shari, having climbed up and over rocks and cliffs during the day took him up on, while Lynn & I walked, trying to be as unobtrusive as possible. I can't ever remember birding a golf course--they have a reputation for being bird-free zones due to their manicuring and heavy pesticide use, but this golf club seemed to be a bit more natural than others I have seen. The grass in places was scraggly, the grounds were rolling hills, and there were big stands of trees all around. The 17th hole pond, as promised did have the 9 goofy whistling ducks, as well as about 50 Mallards, a chicken, a Yellow-crowned Night-heron, and, the only gull we saw in Bermuda, a Lesser Black-backed Gull, standing on the green. According to Lynn, they don't see very many gulls, the water there being relatively nutrient free, which is why it is so clear, thus nothing for smaller prey to eat, thus nothing for gulls to eat. The ban on fast food franchises also limits the dietary choices of gulls. 

The third day we didn't do any birding, though White-tailed Tropicbirds were a constant. Instead, we took a 5-hour tour of the island, top to bottom. For our little sojourn, we had only 21 species, but a lifer and whistling ducks were certainly worth the trip. 

Species    First Sighting
Black-bellied Whistling-Duck    Port Royal GC #17 Pond
Mallard    Spittal Pond NR
Rock Pigeon    Dockyard
Mourning Dove    Dockyard
Common Gallinule    Spittal Pond NR
American Coot    Airport Pond
Killdeer    Dockyard
Lesser Black-backed Gull    Port Royal GC #17 Pond
WHITE-TAILED TROPICBIRD    Dockyard
Yellow-crowned Night Heron    Front Street, Hamilton 
Snowy Egret    Spittal Pond NR
Green Heron    Spittal Pond NR
Great Egret    Spittal Pond NR
Great Kiskadee    Dockyard
White-eyed Vireo    Spittal Pond NR
American Crow    Spittal Pond NR
Barn Swallow    Spittal Pond NR
European Starling    Dockyard
Gray Catbird    Spittal Pond NR
House Sparrow    Dockyard
Northern Cardinal    Spittal Pond NR

Lake Carasaljo 1/18--Redhead

Ever in search of open water, I went to Lakewood's Lake Carasaljo (or, as I think of it, Lake Unpronounceable) this morning and found that about 500 geese had managed to keep approximately 1/10 of the lake (which is over a mile long) free of ice. In among the geese were a couple of swans, some Mallards, Ring-necked Ducks, and like yesterday at Marshall's Pond, a solo Bufflehead--and this time I looked really carefully. But it wasn't until I walked along the shore a little distance and came to the neat, recently installed pontoon bridge that crosses the lake that I found the duck I'd hoped to see. Mixed in with a slew of white domestic ducks, geese, and one Muscovy Duck (more on it below), was a Redhead, swimming right next to the bridge. 

Redheads are always a welcome sight, right up there with Canvasbacks in my duck pantheon, and I was especially happy because this sighting meant I didn't have to go to an out-of-the-way street in Brick and scan the flocks of scaup in Barnegat Bay for a distant Redhead or two. Last year I got lucky when I found a couple of these ducks floating along off Bay Parkway in Waretown, but they were, as usual, too difficult to photograph. 

I walked up to Route 9 without seeing anything beyond big flocks of Ring-billed Gulls sitting on the ice and few geese munching on a challah someone had thrown on the shore. I returned to the bridge where a young woman was intently watching the ducks. She immediately pointed out the Muscovy Duck to me and asked me what wrong with it. 

"Nothing," I said, "They're just extraordinarily ugly ducks."

"No, no," she said, "There's something wrong with its bill." 

Here's where the really looking comes in. I was pretty sure this was the same Muscovy Duck I'd seen last month which had waddled up to me and tried to untie my boot laces and since Muscovy Ducks are not "countable" I didn't give it much of a look. But indeed, she was right, the top section of its bill was gone and its tongue clear to see resting on the bottom bill. 

"These birds are sometimes not kind to each other," I told her as we watched three gulls squabble over a slice of bread. It looked to me like the Muscovy was out of its element in the wilds of Lakewood.

More interesting to me was that the Redhead had disappeared. It being a diving duck, I gave it some time to come up to the surface, but it was gone. So, as often happens, my life line just happened to intersect with its life line at the right time--for me. 

I crossed over the bridge which leads to a more forested area of the park and then swung around over the rivulet of the Metedeconk River that feeds the lake without seeing much more of interest except for a Brown Creeper at the base of a tree. 

When I got back to my car a woman in the parking lot asked me if I'd seen anything "good."  I told her I'd seen a Redhead.

"Have you been to Lake of the Lilies?" she asked.

"Not recently."

"There are Redheads there."

"Yes, but now I don't have to go there, do I?"

Then she asked me about eagles. It was time to leave. 

Marshall's Pond 1/17--Northern Shoveler, American Wigeon

You can observe a lot by looking  

                                                     --Yogi Berra

I stopped at Marshall's Pond today, hoping that the resident waterfowl had been moving around enough to keep some of the water open, since almost every body of water around here, including big swaths of Barnegat Bay, is frozen. And they had kept a small section ice-free. I'd like to think it's the heat they generate by swimming around as well as their body temperature, but sometimes I suspect excreta plays a role too. 

American Wigeons amid garbage

Of course, I was looking for year birds and Marshall's can have a good variety of ducks, but my first scan showed only geese, Mallards, a flock (32) of Ring-necked Ducks, and a lone Bufflehead. Not promising. I walked to the east end, hoping that section would also have some open water, but it was iced up all the way back, so I returned to the little draw of open water. I decided to look at every duck (there weren't that many) to see if something new for the year was mixed in with the others and sure enough, I quickly found a hen American Wigeon. Then I found a couple of others and then two more on the little garbage strewn island at the west end. 

Northern Shovelers (hens)

Looking around some more, I saw two smaller ducks with huge beaks float right by me--hen Northern Shovelers. Neither of these two species are rare, but they were both what I was hoping I'd find at this shopping mall's retention pond. I was happy to have them on the list but bothered that I didn't find them sooner--like the moment I got there. It wasn't as if I had thousands of ducks to sort through and it wasn't like they were similar to anything else on the pond, and I don't have the excuse that they were diving ducks and were underwater when I first scanned. So, the lesson I repeatedly have to relearn is to actually look at what's in front of me, instead of quickly ticking off "Mallard, ring-neck, single Bufflehead...let me look somewhere else." The Yiddish for "patience" is sitzfleisch.

Marshall's Pond 10/24--Eurasian Wigeon

Eurasian Wigeon

I spent two weeks in Portugal and Spain--did I see a Eurasian Wigeon in its home waters among all the Mallards, Gadwalls, shovelers, and teal?  No I did not. Instead, I had to go to a retention pond next to a shopping center in Toms River to find my find Eurasian Wigeon of the year and frankly, I'm happier seeing it 10 miles from home than I would have been had I ticked it off in Europe. 

That rather elongated pond which runs the length of the parking lot and then back toward some private houses has an inexplicable history of attracting rarities; this isn't the first Eurasian Wigeon I've seen there, though it was my best sighting. In the past, the birds I've seen there have been at the east end of the pond where the viewpoint is not ideal, and the sun is directly in your eyes in the morning. Today, it was overcast and the bird was in the middle of the pond toward the west end. It took me about 3 minutes to find it--there weren't that many ducks or geese to sort through and its red head and gray flanks just popped out against the surrounding American Wigeon. 

I usually have seen a Eurasian Wigeon well before October. For a number of years, one was faithfully showing up on the Shark River where you could get distant but decent view of it. This year, the bird did not show up. Or sometimes one would be on one of the ponds around Belmar, Avon, or Spring Lake--again, not this year. 

After seeing the wigeons I drove over to Shelter Cove and then to Cattus Island. It was pretty windy at Cattus and I was debating whether, given the dearth of birds I was finding, assuming they were all hunkering down, whether it was worth a walk around Scout Island. I decided to go over the boardwalk there and it was a good decision, because one of the warblers I saw was not the expected Yellow-rump but a Blackpoll Warbler, a bird, that looks very different in non-breeding plumage than in the spring--but the little yellow feet were the dead giveaway and let me eliminate the very similar Bay-breasted Warbler as a possibility. It even stayed still long enough for one photograph. 

Blackpoll Warbler

January Wrap-up--126 Species

Red-shouldered Hawk, New Egypt

 It's the usual drill: Run around to all the hot spots and pick up the common rarities and the winter birds (mostly ducks), because you "need" all these birds for the year. Why you need them is best left unquestioned. 

So, Barnegat Light, for the King Eider, Assunpink for the Trumpeter Swans. Luckily, Marshall's Pond had a Eurasian Wigeon, so I didn't have to go all the way up to the Shark River. The Barnegat CBC on the 2nd got me a couple of cool birds (in addition to my owl fix) like Virginia Rail and Sedge Wren. There was a Dovekie incursion earlier in the month and I was able to spot one (while others were making my teeth grind with multiple sightings). 

Greater White-fronted Goose, Jackson

The big chase was the Greater White-fronted Goose that decided to plunk itself down on a high school foot
ball field in Jackson. I went back a week later (to "get" Green-winged Teal in the retention pond) and it was still there along with the always entertaining, eBird filter-busting flock of Horned Larks. 

I have left a few birds that I got last January for the upcoming month, which might have been inadvertently smart, since February is such a dreary month, especially if the ponds freeze, that it will be good to have some targets to keep me interested. 

The winter months can be a slog as the excitement of the new year wears off. With birders the conversation always comes around to the dearth of birds lately, both ducks and land birds. The ducks are understandable, since they don't migrate unless they have to, and with the warmer weather up north becoming the norm, they don't have to. The land birds, I think, are analogous to the frog in a pot of water brought slowly to a boil. Their numbers have been declining for years (remember the 3 billion birds missing articles from a couple of years ago?) and it is only now that we realize the frog has been cooked. 

Counties birded: Atlantic, Burlington, Monmouth, Ocean

Species   First Sighting

Snow Goose   Holgate

Greater White-fronted Goose   Jackson Liberty HS

Brant   Sandy Hook

Canada Goose   Seven Presidents Park

Mute Swan   Bridge to Nowhere

Trumpeter Swan   Assunpink WMA

Tundra Swan   Whitesbog

Northern Shoveler   Marshall's Pond

Gadwall   Ocean Acres Pond

Eurasian Wigeon   Marshall's Pond

American Wigeon   Marshall's Pond

Mallard   Sandy Hook

American Black Duck   Sandy Hook

Northern Pintail   Brig

Green-winged Teal   Brig

Canvasback   Brig

Ring-necked Duck   Manahawkin Lake

Greater Scaup   East Bay Av

Lesser Scaup   Lake of the Lilies

King Eider   Barnegat Lighthouse SP

Common Eider   Sandy Hook

Harlequin Duck   Barnegat Lighthouse SP

Surf Scoter   Sandy Hook

White-winged Scoter   Sandy Hook

Black Scoter   Island Beach SP

Long-tailed Duck   Sandy Hook

Bufflehead   Sandy Hook

Common Goldeneye   Sandy Hook

Hooded Merganser   Bridge to Nowhere

Common Merganser   Assunpink WMA

Red-breasted Merganser   Sandy Hook

Ruddy Duck   East Bay Av

Ring-necked Pheasant   Assunpink WMA

Pied-billed Grebe   Lake Shenandoah County Park

Horned Grebe   Sandy Hook

Rock Pigeon   Wawa South Toms River

Mourning Dove  Cedar Bridge Rd

Virginia Rail   Beach Av

American Coot   Lake of the Lilies

American Oystercatcher   Holgate

Black-bellied Plover   Sandy Hook

Killdeer   Lake Barnegat

Marbled Godwit   Holgate

Ruddy Turnstone   Barnegat Lighthouse SP

Sanderling   Sandy Hook

Dunlin   Holgate

Purple Sandpiper   Manasquan Inlet

Least Sandpiper   Barnegat Lighthouse SP

Long-billed Dowitcher   Lake Barnegat

American Woodcock   Budd’s Bogs

Greater Yellowlegs   Bridge to Nowhere

Dovekie   Island Beach SP

Razorbill   Sandy Hook

Bonaparte's Gull   Sandy Hook

Ring-billed Gull   Wawa South Toms River

Herring Gull   Sandy Hook

Great Black-backed Gull   Sandy Hook

Red-throated Loon   Sandy Hook

Common Loon   Sandy Hook

Northern Gannet   Sandy Hook

Great Cormorant   Island Beach SP

Double-crested Cormorant   East Bay Av

Great Blue Heron   Beach Av

Great Egret   Bridge to Nowhere

Black Vulture   Crestwood Village

Turkey Vulture   Sandy Hook

Northern Harrier   Bridge to Nowhere

Sharp-shinned Hawk   Cattus Island County Park

Cooper's Hawk   Ridge Av

Bald Eagle   Beach Av

Red-shouldered Hawk   Bridge to Nowhere

Red-tailed Hawk   Bridge to Nowhere

Eastern Screech-Owl   Beach Av

Great Horned Owl   Beach Av

Barred Owl   Beach Av

Long-eared Owl   Undisclosed Location

Belted Kingfisher   Bridge to Nowhere

Yellow-bellied Sapsucker   Levi's Rd

Red-bellied Woodpecker   Bridge to Nowhere

Downy Woodpecker   Bridge to Nowhere

Hairy Woodpecker   Bridge to Nowhere

Northern Flicker   Manahawkin WMA

American Kestrel   Budd’s Bogs

Merlin   Budd’s Bogs

Peregrine Falcon   Manasquan Inlet

Blue Jay   Wawa South Toms River

American Crow   35 Sunset Rd

Common Raven   Whitesbog

Carolina Chickadee   Bridge to Nowhere

Tufted Titmouse   Bridge to Nowhere

Horned Lark   Sandy Hook

Ruby-crowned Kinglet   Whitesbog

Golden-crowned Kinglet   Sandy Hook

Red-breasted Nuthatch   Bridge to Nowhere

White-breasted Nuthatch   35 Sunset Rd

Brown Creeper   Budd’s Bogs

Winter Wren   Bridge to Nowhere

Sedge Wren   Beach Av

Carolina Wren   35 Sunset Rd

European Starling   Wawa South Toms River

Gray Catbird   Manahawkin WMA

Northern Mockingbird   Wawa South Toms River

Eastern Bluebird   Whitesbog

Hermit Thrush   Bridge to Nowhere

American Robin   Sandy Hook

House Sparrow   Wawa South Toms River

House Finch   Bridge to Nowhere

American Goldfinch   Levi's Rd

Lapland Longspur   Sandy Hook

Field Sparrow   Assunpink WMA

American Tree Sparrow   Bridge to Nowhere

Fox Sparrow   Manahawkin WMA

Dark-eyed Junco   Levi's Rd

White-throated Sparrow   Levi's Rd

Savannah Sparrow   Barnegat Lighthouse SP

Song Sparrow   35 Sunset Rd

Swamp Sparrow   Bridge to Nowhere

Eastern Towhee   Budd’s Bogs

Eastern Meadowlark   Budd’s Bogs

Red-winged Blackbird   Bridge to Nowhere

Brown-headed Cowbird   Ridge Av

Rusty Blackbird   Budd’s Bogs

Common Grackle   Bridge to Nowhere

Boat-tailed Grackle   Bridge to Nowhere

Yellow-rumped Warbler   Sandy Hook

Northern Cardinal   35 Sunset Rd

Marshall's Pond 1/16--Eurasian Wigeon

Procrastination pays. 

I went to Marshall's Pond this morning. This unprepossessing retention pond on the side of a third rate shopping center (guess what store you park near) is famous in Ocean County for attracting rare waterfowl. There is no rational explanation for this phenomenon; it isn't as if it's the only water around. And yet, almost every year some duck or goose of note turns up along with the usual denizens. 

Normally, by this time of year, I've gone up to MacLearie Park in Belmar to play Where's Waldo with a distant flock of American Wigeon, looking for the Eurasian Wigeon, a fairly rare duck which seems to show up annually. But I've been putting it off--it seemed more like obligation than fun, and I wasn't anxious to make another contribution to the Year of Lousy Looks, since you never really get a good look at this pretty bird from that vantage. Apparently, if you scope from the parking lot of the Shell Station down the road, the look is better, but I'm not that bold, and did you notice the word "scope" at the beginning of the sentence? 

So, when I saw late yesterday afternoon a report of a Eurasian Wigeon at that shopping cart filled puddle, I knew where I was starting the birding day. I arrived at 7:14. By 7:20 I'd seen the duck, close by, (no scope required) and took some photos just as dawn was breaking. And the bird is in Ocean County too. 

It isn't the first time I've seen Eurasian Wigeon at this pond, but it was the easiest time I've ever had finding it. Usually, I get there later in the day and sun glare, especially towards the east end of the pond, is always a problem. Not today though. 

And think of all the gas I saved. Makes me feel positively green.